How to tell if a laptop battery or charger is damaged?

Laptop batteries degrade over time, and the battery life you enjoyed when you purchased your laptop will shorten as your laptop ages.


   Battery failure can be a terrible problem as it can cause your laptop to shut down suddenly and the work files you were editing will be lost. You can even prevent it from starting when not plugged in.


1.Battery bulgeIf your laptop case is swollen, like it’s a little cracked at the seams, then your battery is most likely swollen.
This is a huge fire risk – the batteries in laptops are full of volatile chemicals, and when the batteries start to swell, the potential for a fire is high.


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2.Try chargingTo determine if the battery is faulty, connect the laptop to an external power source via the laptop’s power cord.
Leave the laptop turned off overnight to give it enough time to try charging. After Windows opens and loads, enter desktop mode and look for the battery icon in the system tray. Hover over the icon to see a status message and an indication of the battery percentage.


If it says “Plugged in, charging,” that means your battery is working, even if the charging capacity has dropped significantly since you bought the laptop.
If the status message says “0% available (plugged in, not charging),” your battery is not delivering power, which probably means it’s really dead. Alternatively, if the icon shows a red “X” next to the battery, Windows cannot detect your battery.
3.Physical cleaningPlease physically check your current battery by turning off the computer, unplugging the power cord, and removing the battery. There may be dust between the laptop and the  laptop battery’s metal contacts that help charge. Gently clean the contacts with a cloth dampened with alcohol, reinsert and check the battery status in the system tray again


4.TestThere are many computer programs designed to test various aspects of a battery. Using one of these programs can help you diagnose the problem. Programs like Notebook Battery Eater, Notebook Hardware Control, and Smarter Battery measure statistics such as average battery charge time, time required to charge, full charge capacity, and how long it takes to use a charge.


Laptop manufacturers can even create their own programs to test and diagnose battery problems, such as HP System Diagnostic Tool, Toshiba PC Health Monitor, and Dell PC Diagnostics.
5.AlternativesIt’s inevitable that your Dell laptop batterywill die at some point. If that time comes, the only thing to do is replace it. Take it off and check its model number.

Can Macs get viruses? Here’s how to protect your Apple laptop.

Can Macs get viruses? Here’s how to protect your Apple laptop.
Can Macs get viruses? The answer is yes. Macs have been deemed as one of the safer options on the market, and they deserve that reputation thanks to their strong protections and on-the-pulse updates.


But they’re still vulnerable to malware. Cybercriminals are opportunists, and they’re taking advantage of the rising popularity of Macs to find new ways to infect devices and steal or damage users’ data.
Find out about how to get rid of viruses on your Mac now.Are MacBooks safe from viruses?Macbooks are not entirely safe from viruses. Viruses are a type of malicious code — aka malware — which is an umbrella term for code that infects your device and destroys, damages or steals data. There are many different types of malware, and all of them have the potential to affect Macs.
These include adware, which causes unwanted ads to pop up on your device, and spyware, which effectively transfers valuable data to another device.

Ransomware typically denies you access to your own data unless you pay a ransom, and Trojan horses are malicious programs that are embedded within software. Phishing scams are a type of malware, too. These emails or messages appear to be sent from reputable companies or people , but often have malicious content hidden within links and attachments. Finally, zero-day threats are emerging threats that are so new, there aren’t proper solutions in place to tackle them yet.


As for how to check if your Mac has been hacked, slow or lagging performance, unsolicited ads and emails you don’t remember sending are major red flags.

The lowdown on Macs’ built-in securityThere’s a reason why Macs have historically been seen as the “safest” devices: the built-in protections in the operating system (OS) and hardware are excellent. These are some of the features that help prevent you from accidentally downloading a virus onto your device:
Anti-phishing technology in Safari. Identifies and blocks websites that contain malicious content, like files and links. Safari also lets you know if your passwords have been compromised, or if they’re easy for a hacker to guess.

Find My service. Apple’s “Find My” feature might have helped you find your phone once or twice, but it has a deeper use. If a criminal manages to get hold of one of your devices, you can use this app to either find your stolen Mac, or erase any data so it can’t be accessed by an unauthorised person.FileVault. Part of macOS, FileVault encrypts your data to keep it safe and secure.

Gatekeeper. Stops software that hasn’t been approved by Apple from running on your device, and only allows you to download apps by certified, reputable developers.XProtect. Apple’s antivirus for Mac program works in the background to automatically scan each app you try to install for malware. Apple has a list of malicious apps it keeps tabs on, and Mac users can’t successfully download these onto their device.

Sandboxing. Separates apps from critical components your Mac needs to run smoothly, and prevents them from influencing other apps you may be using at the time.Security updates. Apple frequently releases patches to fix flaws and address new bugs, and it usually responds quickly — even to zero-day threats. Plus, users have the ability to switch on auto-updates so they always have the latest protection in place. 
How to protect your Mac in 5 easy steps


Built-in features aside, there are a few things you can do to boost your Mac’s security and reduce your chances of falling victim to viruses (or a similar cyber attack).
#1 Activate multi-factor authentication. Two-factor authentication is good, multi-factor authentication (MFA) is better. MFA requires you to provide your username, password and one more piece of information, like a code sent to your phone or email , before you can log into an account.

#2 Avoid any announcements about Flash. Adobe’s Flash player was an issue for many Mac users prior to 2020 when it was discontinued. Before then, hackers were known to create fake Flash programs to trick people into downloading malware on their device. But with Flash out of the picture, it’s important to ignore any unsolicited pop-ups instructing you to install or update the program.
#3 Don’t take the bait. Phishing scams are common, and it’s important to stay vigilant and carefully assess every message you get — even if your email spam filters are switched on. Some of the key signs of a phishing email are poor spelling or grammar, odd turns of phrase, panic-inducing content or an offer that’s too good to be true. If you receive an email or message from someone you don’t know or trust, avoid opening it. If you do open it, don ‘t click on any links or attachments. 
#4 Maintain two backups of your data. It’s a good idea to back up your data regularly, like every couple of weeks. That way, if you are susceptible to malware, you’ll be able to bounce back quickly and mitigate any losses to your data. Aim to keep two backups: one on an external hard drive or flash drive, and another on the cloud.
#5 Never skip a macOS update. As tempting as it is to ignore these notifications, especially since they pop up so often, it’s crucial to accept all software updates. Along with your operating system, this applies to any other software you have installed, such as third-party antivirus software.

Secure your Mac with ESET Cybersecurity ProESET Cybersecurity Pro is a reliable antivirus, anti-spyware and anti-phishing software for Macs. It offers a multilayered defense against all types of malware, as well as other viruses and identity theft. It also boosts your security with a personal firewall and parental controls, which is key if your children aren’t constantly supervised online. The software also increases your protection if you have to jump onto public WiFi networks, which is sometimes inevitable.Questions, or want to learn more about how to remove viruses from your Mac? Connect with our team today, and we’ll be happy to guide you.

How to Turn Off Battery Health Management on Mac

A new Battery Health Management feature on Mac tries to extend the laptop’s battery life by not fully charging it. Thankfully, you can still control the charging cycles by turning the feature off.


macOS Catalina’s 10.15.5 update brought a new Battery Health Management feature, which is designed to extend the battery life of Apple’s MacBooks by changing how often the device gets fully charged. Want your MacBook to always be fully juiced? Here’s how to turn the feature off.

How Does Battery Health Management on Mac Work?

Battery Health Management on the Mac is similar to the Optimized Charging feature on iPhone and iPad, but it’s designed for a different use case. It only works on MacBooks that ship with USB-C Thunderbolt 3 ports (everything including the 2016 MacBook Pro, 2018 MacBook Air, and after).
You see, if you use your MacBook with a monitor, it probably stays plugged it most of the time (like mine does). This means that your MacBook is almost always fully charged.


RELATED:How IOS 13 Will Save Your IPhone’s Battery (By Not Fully Charging It)
This is great if you’re in the habit of heading out with your MacBook and charging it multiple times a day. But if your MacBook’s battery is always fully charged up, it’s actually degrading its battery life and battery health.
The way that the Battery Health Management feature takes care of it is by not always fully charging your MacBook. This way, it can reduce the number of full battery charge cycles and prolong your battery life.

Now, Apple says that it’s doing this smartly, by monitoring your MacBook’s usage and only stopping the MacBook from hitting 100 percent charge levels if it knows that the MacBook is going to be plugged in for a long time (based on your usage patterns).


But the feature isn’t foolproof, and it’s turned on by default if you buy a new MacBook or after you upgrade to macOS Catalina 10.15.5 (or later). What if you always want your MacBook to be charged up to 100 percent, so even if you want to head out, you know that your MacBook won’t run out halfway.
You can do this by disabling the Battery Health Management feature altogether.


How to Disable Battery Health Management on MacBattery Health Management is an Energy Saver feature. To disable it, click on the Apple icon in the top-left corner of the menu bar and then select the “System Preferences” option.
Click on System Preferences button from Apple menu in menu barHere, click on the “Energy Saver” button.


Click on the Energy Saver option from System PreferencesNow, click on the “Battery Health” button found in the bottom toolbar. Here, uncheck the Battery Health Management” option.


Click the Battery Health button and then uncheck the Battery Health Management optionFrom the confirmation box, select the “Turn Off” button to confirm.
Click the The Battery Health Management feature has been disabled on your Mac and it will now charge regularly.

How to care for your laptop’s battery and extend its life

Taking proper care of your laptop’s battery is important for ensuring your mobile machine can run as long as possible. Although battery technology has evolved in the background, outdating “best practices” from a few years ago, there are still a number of ways you can extend (or reduce) your laptop battery’s health. We’ve rounded up the top tips for how to care for your laptop’s battery, from how long you should leave it plugged in to how low you should let the battery drain.


Unlike many desktop computers, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach to laptops. Every machine is a little different, so finding out as much as you can about your laptop and its battery is important. Our tips apply to lithium -ion ​​batteries, which are, by far, the most widely used batteries in modern laptops.

All laptop batteries are built to handle a certain number of charge cycles, usually somewhere around 500 full cycles — and sometimes even more. Essentially, a charge cycle equals one full discharge down to 0% and then a recharge back up to 100%. A discharge down to 50% and then back to 100% would equal half a cycle. Over time, each charge cycle decreases a battery’s capacity from its design specifications, meaning that the fewer times you drain it, the longer the battery lasts — all other things being equal.


So, where do you start? You can begin by visiting the power settings corner of your laptop and learning how your battery works and what battery settings to enable. Also, pay attention to hibernation modes. Ideally, you want your laptop to enter into hibernation before the battery is totally drained — as well as during downtime when you won’t be using the laptop for a while.


To save even more power, take a tour of your apps and quit any that are running in the background and steadily eating into your battery life. On Windows 10, for example, we suggest you search for and enable the Battery Saver. This mode will automatically turn on when your laptop reaches around 20% battery life (more down below on why this is particularly important). This will automatically block background apps, keep your features like Calendar from syncing or pushing notifications, lower screen brightness, and various other changes that will conserve your battery so you can get to an outlet ASAP.


For MacBooks, look into enabling Power Nap so you can put your Mac to sleep without worrying about it skipping important tasks, allowing you to save automatic more battery life. Enabling graphics switching can also help Macs save energy by switching to a lower graphics mode when engaged in simple tasks (like text-based work where graphics aren’t as important).
There are plenty of manual changes you can make here, too.

You can safely shut down things like cloud storage and messaging applications that may be running in the background. You can also manually reduce the amount of power you’re using by shutting off Wi -Fi and Bluetooth when you’re not using them, turning off optional features such as keyboard backlighting, and generally reducing the number of components burning power. Both Microsoft and Apple have guides explaining the process further.


Keeping your battery in zonelaptop chargingFrameAngel/ShutterstockIn ancient, less enlightened times, there was a problem called “battery memory” that caused nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) batteries to “forget” their full charge capacity and start charging at lower and lower levels. This problem doesn’t exist any thanks longer to modern lithium-ion batteries, but it has led to a lot of poor advice and arguments about battery care based on outdated information. It’s time to clear the air.


Contrary to some recommendations, you don’t need to routinely discharge a lithium-ion battery completely and then recharge it to somehow reboot or calibrate it — this is a destructive practice that’s very hard on your battery. Whether or not it’s a smart idea to perform a complete discharge a couple of times a year remains an unanswered question. Generally, the consensus seems to be that letting your battery discharge (without bottoming it out — aim for around 20%) and then charging it when possible is the best practice.
Next, there was a time when users were advised to refrain from keeping their devices plugged in, based on the idea that letting a battery charge to 100% could wear the battery out more quickly. Today, however, modern devices are designed to stop charging at 100%, so keeping them plugged in doesn’t impact the battery’s lifespan, according to Battery University.


As with manybattery-related questions, the issue of keeping your laptop plugged in when it’s reached full capacity is hotly debated, so there’s nothing wrong with turning your machine off and unplugging it if you feel more comfortable doing that. But generally speaking, the best thing you can do for your lithium-ion battery is to avoid letting it discharge below 20%. Plug it in and charge it when you can, 
When a laptop battery gets too hot, the electrochemical reactions inside speed up — but that doesn’t mean that the battery grows more efficient. Instead, the battery is now producing lots of energy that it cannot use and cannot safely route to any hardware. This creates even more heat, compounding the problem. Not only can this eventually damage the inside of the battery permanently, but it also wears the battery out with a bunch of chemical reactions that aren’t necessary but burn through a battery’s lifespan anyway.


Today’s lithium-ion batteries are durable, but they can only take so much heat. For example, if you are charging your battery and it starts to get overly warm, perhaps because the CPU or graphics processor is working hard or the environment is overly hot , then shut the device down and pop the battery out if possible. Give it a break so that it can cool down, or you can move it to someplace with a lower temperature. Many modern laptops have sealed batteries, in which case shutting the machine down and letting it cool is highly recommended if maximizing the battery’s lifespan is your concern.
Likewise, keep the laptop off of your lap. If discomfort isn’t a good enough reason, with many machines, you’re also making the problem worse by blocking vents. You’ll want to make sure that both vents that pull in cool air and those that expel hot air are able to do their jobs.


Finally, and perhaps most importantly, you should avoid placing your laptop anywhere it might become hot. That includes your car on a hot summer day, beneath a window that gets direct sunlight, or near a space heater. Unusual conditions such as these can do a lot of damage to a battery in a short period of time, though you may not realize it immediately.


Cold temperatures usually aren’t a problem down to a certain point, and storing a battery in a cool place is recommended, but don’t leave your laptop in freezing temperatures. Too much cold can also kill the battery permanently or reduce its lifespan.

Playing Assassin’s Creed on an iPhone sounds fun, but I’d rather have better battery life

We just learned about how the iPhone 15 Pro and Pro Max models are getting an all-new A17 Pro chip that’s incredibly powerful. Besides overusing the word Pro, Apple tells us this will lead to amazing new games like an Assassin’s Creed title that’s “console quality,” so you’ll essentially have a PlayStation or Xbox game that you can play anytime and anywhere.


This is pretty cool. I’m a fan of most of the Assassin’s Creed games, like a lot of others, and I could see myself checking it out if I ever bought an iPhone Pro something-or-other. Then I would get tired of trying to play an AAA game on a tiny screen and go back to wishing the battery lasted longer. We’ve reached the point where the chips that power our amazing phones are not the bottleneck they once were when it comes to performance. We needed to get here, and while Apple makes the “most powerful” phone processor, chips from Qualcomm and MediaTek are no slouch either.

A trade-off of cranking out bigger and faster CPU cores is that they use more power. A lot more power. This is mitigated by making newer chips better when it comes to how much power they consume, but we’re still talking about devices that run off of a battery. 

Your laptop or PC plugs into the wall, but you only plug in your phone because you have to.I think a lot of people agree that battery life is one of the most important things to consider when it comes to buying a new phone. I really like using the Galaxy Z Flip 5 that AT&T is letting me use, and I’ll miss it when I send it back. I also really hate the battery life it has when I actually do anything with it . It’s not Pixel 4 level of bad, but it’s close.


Rather than see a Galaxy Z Flip 6 that is so powerful it can play Elden Ring or something equally cool, I hope to see a Flip 6 that makes it through the day without needing to be charged if I need to use it a lot. I would play a console-quality game on my phone every once in a while, and it would be fun. But not plugging it in at 7 pm so it doesn’t shut down by 8 is a thing I would enjoy every day.


Charging the Moto G Power 5G
Having both is possible, just not with the current technology. One day, some company will make a phone chip that can do it all and not need charging every 10 or so hours. Years ago, when smartphones were new, nobody would have thought the chips we have now were possible, but tech advances. It will continue to advance.


Until then, I’m more interested in how SoC (System on Chip, a circuit that incorporates the Processor, memory, cache, and graphics in a single package) design improves my battery life. Each generation on all platforms is better than the last , but it seems that the companies making them rarely mention it, usually as a bit of text on some corporate infographic. Let’s bring it front and center. I want to know how much longer the A18 Pro or Snapdragon 9 will run before I need to plug it in.


I’m not saying newer processors aren’t efficient when it comes to battery life because they clearly are. A by-product of their design makes them use less power per unit of performance (we really need something like TDP measurements for phone chips) I’m saying that maybe it’s time to shift focus and efficiency becomes the selling point. Companies already do this when it comes to things like smartwatches.
Maybe the next time a tech company exec stands on a stage and tells us about a new chip inside the best phone, the first words we hear should be about how much of our battery it’s going to use.

4 Signs It’s Time to Replace Your MacBook Battery

Your MacBook battery life won’t last forever . When battery health degrades, leaving your charger at home becomes increasingly untenable since the time between charges can reduce dramatically.
The Obvious Sign: Reduced Battery LifeIt should go without saying, but a MacBook with greatly diminished battery life should benefit from a battery replacement. There are varying degrees of battery degradation, from “a few hours less than what I remember” to the machine lasting single-digit minutes when disconnected from power.
As your battery ages, it will lose capacity as part of the normal aging process. Modern MacBook batteries are good for 1000 cycles before needing to be replaced, while older models typically withstand 300 cycles. You can see how your battery is affected by usage using the graphs under System Settings > Battery.


Ideally, you want to see a steady decline rather than sharp dips in charge level (unless you know you’ve been doing something intensive like playing games or rendering video). Your Mac should remain relatively stable when not in use.

A “cycle” is one full charge from 0% to 100% and back to 0% again. Few people use their MacBooks in this way, but the cycles still add up. For example, two days of using half your battery life and charging from 50% to 100% would equal one cycle. You shouldn’t fear increasing your MacBook’s cycle count, since the battery is designed to be used.
RELATED:Debunking Battery Life Myths For Mobile Phones, Tablets, And Laptops
macOS Battery Service WarningYour MacBook should tell you when it’s time to replace your battery. Click on the battery charge indicator in the menu bar in the top-right corner of the screen. If you see a “Condition: Replace Soon” or similar warning, macOS has determined your battery is deteriorating to a degree where it will soon need replacing.


If you don’t see any such warning, your MacBook battery should be working as normal and not in need of replacement.
View macOS battery status in menu bar
You don’t have to replace your MacBook battery when this warning appears. Doing so will give your laptop a new lease of life when relying on battery power, but if you never leave your desk or find it convenient to carry a charger everywhere you go you can simply ignore it and carry on as normal.
High Cycle Count and Poor Battery HealthYou can see information about your battery under System Settings > Battery. macOS should report the overall condition, with an “i” information button you can tap to see your maximum capacity percentage.


You can also find this information under System Information. Click on the Apple logo in the top-left corner of the screen then hold the Option key on your keyboard. Click on “System Information” and then navigate to the “Power” section in the sidebar. Battery information will be displayed at the top of the information panel, with “Cycle Count” available in the “Health Information” section.
Consult Apple’s battery health guide to work out what sort of cycle count you should expect from your MacBook before needing to replace the battery. To find out which MacBook you have, click on the Apple logo in the top-right corner of the screen and then choose “About This Mac”.


Unexpected Shutdowns or OverheatingYour MacBook will turn itself off sooner than you’d probably like if the battery needs replacing. Unexpected shutdowns or heat problems could also be explained by poor battery health. For example, if your Mac reports that it has a moderate amount of battery left and then shuts down before giving you the low battery warning, a faulty battery could be to blame.
The same is true of unexpected power loss while using your MacBook on battery power. This is an extreme example of a battery fault, where the cell can no longer deliver the required power to keep the machine from shutting down. Even if this is the case , the MacBook should run fine on mains power (at least it does on our old MacBook Air that has no battery inside it).


Older batteries may also be more prone to overheating. You can check your MacBook’s temperature using a free app called Hot (for both Intel and Apple Silicon models). The normal operating temperature for an Apple Silicon (M1 or later) CPU at idle is around 68ºF to 95ºF (20ºC to 35ºC), and around 120ºF (50ºc) or less for an Intel CPU. Under load, both machines can spike to around 212ºF (100ºC) on the CPU.
Monitor temperatures with Hot for macOSTake these temperatures with a pinch of salt, since the ambient temperature and usage conditions (for example, full sunlight) can make a big difference to how hot or cold your MacBook runs. You’re more likely to notice sluggish performance as a result of thermal throttling or spontaneous shutdowns if your Mac is affected by heat.


RELATED:7 Tips To Keep Your Tech From Overheating
What to Do About Your Failing BatteryIf your MacBook is still under warranty or covered by AppleCare+ or another insurance scheme, you may be eligible for a free battery  replacement if your maximum capacity has dropped below 80%. You can check your eligibility under System Settings > General > About under the ” Coverage” section. Make an appointment with Apple or an authorized service center using Apple Support.
Apple will test your battery and let you know if it needs replacing. If you’ve followed the instructions for checking your cycle count and battery health above, you’ll probably already know the outcome of this testing. If you have a 15-inch MacBook Pro manufactured between 2015 and 2017, you may be eligible for a battery replacement due to a recall.
It’s worth checking the Apple Service Programs website to see if your Mac is listed for a free battery replacement or affected by any other issues. If your MacBook isn’t covered by your original warranty or a service program, Apple can still replace the battery. This is the easiest way forward if you want your battery replaced, but it’s also the most costly.
You can check how much a battery replacement will cost using the Mac Repair & Service website. Expect to pay around $199 for a new battery, including parts and labor. In many cases, Apple will be able to fit a new battery on the same day , or you can use an authorized service center or mail-in service if visiting a retail location isn’t possible.

Finally, you can always replace the battery yourself at home. You can buy everything you need to do this (including the battery) on websites like iFixit or Other World Computing. Kits can cost from as little as $60 to around $100 and come with everything you need.

You’ll also find links to guides on iFixit’s website or YouTube demonstrating how to perform the replacement. Replacing a battery is considered a fairly advanced fix, so if you’re worried about things going wrong it might be worth getting someone else to do it That said, if it’s an old MacBook you’re happy to risk and you’re keen to hone your repair skills, a battery replacement might make a perfect Sunday afternoon activity.

Keep Your MacBook Battery in Great ConditionThere are a few basic practices you can employ to keep your MacBook battery in good condition. This includes making use of optimized charging, keeping the charge level between 40 and 80%, and avoiding extreme temperatures.

How to check the condition of your Mac’s battery

If you’re thinking about buying a second-hand Mac notebook, you need to know how to find the condition of the battery.This simple tip helps you do that.A friend of mine was considering purchasing an old(ish) MacBook Pro and wanted to check the battery life as they arranged the deal.


That’s when I thought it might be worth sharing this little tip, given lots of people will be selling Macs to get hold of a new MacBook Air.
Battery cycles for battery healthThat’s when I remembered this little-known, but really quite useful (and mercifully short), Mac tip that helps you get some kind of insight into your Mac’s battery health.
[Related: Apple’s place is in the enterprise ]The batteries used inside Macs are built to handle a number of battery cycles.
Apple advises that once your battery has used up all these cycles, it should be considered as needing replacement.
The company also says: “Your battery is designed to retain up to 80 percent of its original capacity at 1,000 complete charge cycles.”
They usually work way beyond that number (it’s kind of notional), but you may experience increasingly low battery life between charges until you end up with a notebook you have to plug into power to use.


This is why you need to know how to find the battery cycle count data, particularly if you are about to purchase a second-hand Mac notebook. That way you know why what you are buying seems to be a bargain and can plan in advance for a battery replacement.
How to check the battery cycle count on MacsApple makes it easy to check the battery cycle count on Macs; you just need to follow these instructions:
Open About This Mac in the Apple Menu.General information about your system will appear in a small window.At the bottom left of that window you’ll find a button called ‘System Report’.Press this button, and a new window appears offering all kinds of hardware-related information about your Mac – choose the Power section.NB: Hold down the Option key when you press About This Mac to open the System Report directly.In the right-hand window in the next pane look for Health Information.This tells you your current cycle count and lets you know the condition of your battery.
What about the battery icon?You can also get a general sense of battery health using the battery icon.


Option-click the battery icon in the menu bar, and you will see one of these statements:
Normal: This is what you want to seeReplace Soon: The battery works but needs replacing.Replace Now: You can keep using the battery, but don’t expect too much time between charges, and you should look to replacing it.Service Battery: Don’t panic, you can keep using your Mac, but you really should take the machine in and get it services.
What is battery cycle?The batteries used in notebooks are not built to last forever.
Battery cycles are a shorthand used by manufacturers to estimate battery life. A battery cycle represents what happens when the battery is fully charged and then used until it empties – that’s one cycle.


If you use 90 percdent of your Mac’s power until it reaches 10 percent power, charge it to 100%, and then use a tenth of the power in the now charged Mac, that counts as a single charge (90 +10 = 100). Use up 50 percent four times running, and that’s two charges.


What is my Mac’s battery cycle?Most current Macs (MacBooks, MacBook Airs, and MacBook Pros) use batteries assessed as having 1,000 battery cycles. That’s pretty much good enough for at least three years of regular use.
Older Macs (including the original MacBook Air) carried batteries with just 300 cycles inside. You can check how many cycles your Mac is meant to have here.

The Ultimate Guide to Boosting your MacBook’s Battery Life

Despite the fact that Apple seem to be on a mission to make each new MacBook lighter and thinner than the previous version, today your typical MacBook boasts an impressive battery life, to the point where you can expect to get a full day’s work from a single charge. But it’s human nature to always want that little bit extra! 
That’s why in this post I’m going to be sharing 9 tips for getting the most out of your MacBook’s battery.
These tips are ideal
if you have an older MacBook; have recently noticed a decline in the running time you get from a single charge – or you’re just not in the mood to go hunting for your charger!Check how long your battery should lastBefore we start looking at tricks for getting the most out of your battery, it’s worth taking a moment to check how long the battery should last for your particular model.
If your MacBook is dramatically underperforming in the battery department, then this could indicate an underlying technical problem. If there’s a fault with your battery, then no matter how clever you are about how you use your Mac’s battery, you’re not getting to get the best results. If there’s a technical issue, then you’re better off taking your MacBook into your local Apple Store – especially if your laptop is still under warranty!

You can also check whether your battery needs to be replaced or serviced, by holding down the ‘option’ key on your keyboard and clicking the battery icon in your Mac’s menu bar. At the very top of the dropdown menu, you’ll see a summary of the current state of your battery.Ideally, this should read ‘Condition: Normal,’ but if there’s a problem you may see one of the following:
Replace Soon. The battery is holding less charge than when it was new, but is otherwise functioning normally. It may continue to lose charge.Replace Now. The battery is holding significantly less charge than when it was new, but is otherwise functioning normally. You should replace the battery as soon as possible.Service Battery. The battery isn’t functioning normally – it needs to be looked at by a professional.2. Keep up to date

Every new version of OS X introduces fixes and improvements, so it’s possible that upgrading to the latest version may fix any issues you’re experiencing, and could even extend your Mac’s battery life, depending on what’s included in the update.
Even if a new version of OS X doesn’t include any battery-related enhancements, it’ll include other improvements, so it’s always a good idea to make sure you’re running the latest version.


To check whether you’re fully up to date, click the Apple logo in the menu bar and select ‘App Store,’ followed by ‘Updates.’ If there’s an update available, it’ll appear under ‘Software Update.’
Similarly, make sure all your apps are up to date, as new versions may introduce improvements that’ll have a positive impact on how that app uses battery. Also, if you’re running the latest version of OS X, then the latest version of an app should be optimized to work with this version of the operating system – again, this may have a noticeable impact on that app’s battery usage.


3.Turn off Wi-Fi and BluetoothIt’s easy to get into the bad habit of leaving your MacBook’s Wi-Fi and Bluetooth permanently switched on, even when you’re not actively using these connections. Leaving your Mac’s Wi-Fi or Bluetooth running in the background is a surefire way to burn through your battery, so make sure you disable these connections when you’re not using them.
To turn off Wi-Fi, select the Wi-Fi icon from your Mac’s menu bar, and click ‘Turn Wi-Fi off.’
To prevent your MacBook from permanently scanning for other devices over Bluetooth, click the Apple icon in the menu bar and select ‘System Preferences…’ followed by ‘Bluetooth’ and ‘Turn Bluetooth Off.’


system preferences menu4. Unplug unnecessary accessoriesAs a general rule, anything that’s attached to your MacBook is going to drain your battery, whether it’s a USB stick, SD card, 4G modem or external drive. Make sure you disconnect any peripherals that you aren’t currently using. If you have a SuperDrive then it’s also a good idea to eject any CDs or DVDs that aren’t currently in use.  


And even though we’ve all done it at some point, avoid the temptation to charge other devices by attaching them to your MacBook, such as your phone, tablet, e-reader or iPod, as this will have a massive, negative impact on your Mac’s battery life.
5. Try the Battery Health AppBattery Health is a free app that displays a wealth of technical information about the state of your battery, including the original battery capacity vs. its current capacity, when the battery was manufactured, its temperature, and the number of charge cycles completed. This information can be invaluable for diagnosing problems with your battery.
Install and launch Battery Health, and you’ll notice a new icon in your MacBook’s menu bar. Click this icon to open a dialogue containing lots of useful information about the overall health of your battery.


battery health6. Close Unused Apps – particularly battery-hogging ones!It’s a simple fact of life that the more apps you have running, the quicker your battery is going to drain, so it’s crucial that you close any apps that you aren’t actually using – particularly apps that are sucking up more than their fair share of juice.
The quickest way to identify the biggest battery hogs, is to click the ‘Battery’ icon in your MacBook’s menu bar and check whether any apps appear under ‘Apps Using Significant Energy.’


For a more in-depth look at all the apps currently running on your Mac, and the impact they’re having on your battery, launch the Activity Monitor:
Open your ‘Finder’ window and select ‘Applications’ from the left-hand menu.Open the ‘Utilities’ folder, followed by ‘Activity Monitor.’Select the ‘Energy’ tab.activity monitorActivity Monitor lists all the apps that are running on your Mac, plus the amount of power they’re using. Again, you should close any apps that you aren’t currently using,particularlyif those apps are consuming a large amount of power.
7. Check for runaway processesWhile you have Activity Monitor open, this is the perfect time to look for any parts of the Mac operating system that are misbehaving and consuming unusual amounts of battery.


In ‘Activity Monitor,’ select the ‘CPU’ tab. In the ‘CPU’ column, look for any processes that are taking up more than 70% of your CPU.
activity monitor cpuTo close an item, select it and then click the ‘Quit’ icon towards the upper-left of the Activity Monitor window. However, be cautious about terminating processes at random, as some may be performing important work behind the scenes. If you’ re unsure about a particular process, it’s always a good idea to research it on Google, before terminating it.


8. Adjust Energy Saver on MacBookAnother method of conserving battery, is to limit the amount of time your laptop is stood idle, before the screen turns off:  
Click the Apple icon in your Mac’s menu bar.Select ‘System Preferences…’Select ‘Energy Saver’ from the menu that appears.Select the ‘Battery’ tab.energy saverThen, adjust the amount of time before your screen powers down, using the ‘Turn display off after…’ slider.


9. Dim Screen Brightness onMacBookIf you can cope with staring at a slightly darker screenwithoutgetting eye strain, then you may want to try reducing the screen brightness as this will make your battery last just that little bit longer.

MacBook having trouble sleeping? Battery running down? Try this utility

Do you find your MacBook battery randomly dying while sitting on its side or in its laptop bag doing nothing?


Have you ever come back to your MacBook to find the battery dead or dying, but the lid’s been shut and the computer doesn’t seem like it’s doing anything? Or maybe you’re coming back to find your sleeping MacBook is warm, even hot Chances are that something is bringing the system out of sleep and running the battery down.
Something is up.
Well, that’s the question. And believe me, trying to track down the cause can lead you deep into the bowels of macOS.

Sleep Aid is a utility by Ohanaware that delves deep into the Power Management messages and settings, looking for reasons why your MacBook could be being pulled out from a slumber, and into a state of insomnia.


And when I say this utility takes a deep dive, believe me, that it takes a very deep dive. Sleep Aid spots each and every time your MacBook is woken from slumber, whether that’s because a charger’s been plugged in, because of a Bluetooth or network wake-up request, a notification, or a normal background task, as well as a suspicious wake-up that may indicate a problem.


Here’s what you can expect to see: it’s very detailed.
But there’s more — Sleep Aid can also help solve sleep issues. Using the Sleep Settings window, you can enable and disable sleep-related options and configure various settings to help solve sleep issues, or simply reduce the number of times the Mac experiences a wake-up when it’s not in use.


I’ve been using Sleep Aid on a few different MacBooks, and I have to admit that it’s a really powerful, handy tool. If you’re the curious type, you’ll love the insight that it gives you into what’s going on when the lid is shut on your MacBook. If you’re tearing your hair out because your Macbook won’t sleep properly and you’re coming back to find the battery depleted, this tool will be invaluable in helping you troubleshoot and fix the issue.

Sleep Aid comes with a 14-day no-obligation (you don’t have to enter payment details or even an email address), fully featured free trial; after that, you can buy a license, with prices starting at $25. 

I traded my MacBook for a Dell XPS 15 for a month, and didn’t regret it at all

When you’re shopping for a Dell XPS laptop, you know exactly what you’re getting. The bezels are wicked thin, the display shines bright and colorful, and the performance is as good as the design. and feel of what is arguably Dell’s most competitive laptop model has remained mostly the same; that’s how timeless the original was.


Also: I tested Dell’s latest XPS laptops and can’t recommend them enough
In fact, this year’s Dell XPS 15 looks and feels the same as last year’s model, and I’m not complaining. Only now, the performance of the laptop is more capable, thanks to a shift to Ada Lovelace GPUs, though Dell still tells me the XPS line is more tailored for prosumers, content creators, and just about anyone but gamers.
I’ve been testing the Dell XPS 15 over the past month, relegating my trusted MacBook Pro and MacBook Air to the sidelines, and am concluding my review period with the belief that this remains one the best options for Windows users.


Coming from the MacBook’s industrial design, my first impression of the Dell XPS 15 was how much more rugged it looked and felt. The exterior is chiseled with sharp lines and rounded corners, and the brushed aluminum lets you know that this laptop means business.
Also: This 16-in-1 Thunderbolt dock is the PC accessory of my dreams
The XPS 15 weighs a healthy 4.21 lbs, and its presence was most definitely felt as I backpacked throughout New York City for work and briefings. Fortunately, on top of the three USB-C ports — two of which are Thunderbolt 4 — Dell includes an SD card slot and a 3.5mm headphone jack. For those aforementioned briefings, I often need to transfer photos and videos — captured with my mirrorless camera — to my laptop for editing, and the built-in SD card slot is much Appreciated.


As for the bottom half of the laptop, I found the XPS 15 keyboard a little too low-profile for my tastes. The soft-touch keycaps can feel mushy and not as tactile as I’d like for my type-heavy workflow, though the backlighting gets plenty bright for those late-night writing sessions.


Also: I found the best keyboard for students, and its ChatGPT shortcut proves it
The carbon fiber weave surrounding what is one of the larger trackpads I’ve used on a 15-inch laptop is a nice, edgy touch, serving as a rather comforting wrist rest when gliding and clicking around. at times, with the XPS 15 processing my inputs as a “pinch out” or “pinch in” when my left wrist was simply laying a little too close to the middle surface.


There was more to say about the XPS 15’s design last year when the changes were actually new, so I’ll plug our review for those who want a more in-depth analysis of what’s been pictured in this article. My takeaway is that while I prefer the all-aluminum build — both on the inside and out — of the MacBook or Microsoft Surface Laptop, it’s great to see Dell stick with a distinguishable design language — one that I’m sure has many other fans.


Also: This Acer laptop may be the most affordable way to have an Nvidia 40 Series GPU
The review unit that Dell provided me features a 13th-gen Core i7-13700H, 32GB of RAM, 1TB of storage, an RTX 4070 (40W), and a 3.5K resolution OLED display, which was the most noticeable upgrade of all.

this is one of the most — if not the most — sharp-looking, color-accurate displays I’ve seen on a laptop, and it’s a feature that I’d recommend potential buyers opt for if photo and video work is central to you. 
When paired with the top-firing speakers flanking the sides of the keyboard, the multimedia experience on the XPS 15 can be mesmerizing. It’s one of the few display-speaker pairings that I’d rank alongside Apple’s 16-inch MacBook Pro.


The ability to configure the XPS 15, from the processor to the Windows operating system to the graphics card to the display, is great to see, especially if you fancy the design and form factor of the laptop but don’t want to overspend on excess In fact, the review unit I tested was more than enough for my week’s work, with the XPS 15 breathing through multi-window applications, 4K video editing on Adobe Premiere Pro, and some touch-ups on Adobe Photoshop.

Also: Best laptops for graphic designers, according to experts who use them
What’s more impressive to me is how long the XPS 15 held up in between charges. Even when using it to power an external monitor, I averaged about six to seven hours of usage before the 10% lower battery warning appeared. Keep in mind that I ‘m tasking the machine with video exports, frequent conference calls (with a suboptimal 720p webcam), and miscellaneous things that pop up throughout a journalist’s work week.


ZDNET’s buying adviceIf I were to buy the Dell XPS 15, I’d be comfortable with a less-powerful RTX 4050 and a smaller storage size of 512GB, since Most of my work is saved on the cloud. With the 3.5K resolution display add-on, that rings me up at around $2,049, a relatively fair price for one of the more premium Windows laptops out there. 
You’ll save an additional $300 if you can live with the FHD+ (1920 x 1200) non-touch display.

And if looks are all you really care about, the Dell XPS 15 can be had for as little as $1,299. No matter the price, you can expect reliable performance and battery life, and a design that’s as timeless as they come.